HEALTHCARE SYSTEM OPERATION

After the water has been balanced and treated. Turn on the System controller with the switch in the ON position and the ION output at maximum - MAINTAIN A CHLORINE LEVEL OF BETWEEN 1 AND 2 ppm, UNTIL YOUR COPPER TEST KIT GIVES YOU A READING OF BETWEEN .2 AND .3 ppm. (After the controller has been turned on, check your copper level every other day until your water has reached the proper level).

Having reached the proper ION level, switch to the AUTO POSITION (see warning sticker inside door). Adjust the ION output to maintain such level. Assuming that the pump is run long enough each day to properly filter the water, very generally, the ION OUTPUT may be adjusted to gallonage as follows:

GALLONS ION OUTPUT
10 - 20M 40%
20 - 25M 60%
25 - 30M 80%
30 - 50M 100%


Every pool has its own environment and personality. Your pool may require more or less ION generation than indicated above.

OXIDIZATION

The System will flocculate the dead organisms, the majority of which can be captured by an efficient filter. To prevent any cloudiness that may be caused by residual particles, organic matter, body oils, suntan oils, etc., that may accumulate in the water, OXIDIZE AS NECESSARY. This can be done using non-chlorine oxidizer. We recommend oxidizing your water at least once a week, whether it needs it or not. If you use liquid chlorine, one or two quarts should handle an average 15,000 gallon pool. Simply broadcast the liquid in the pool after sunset and allow the pump to run about an hour.

MAINTENANCE

After Ionization is established, check:

  • Calcium hardness - once every season

  • Total alkalinity - weekly

  • Copper - weekly

  • PH - weekly

    • LONG TERM POOL CARE

    ION SOLUTION - every 45 days or as needed.

    ELECTRODES - examine and clean twice a year.

    Retain this operation guide and read it frequently until you are totally familiar with its contents. If you have any problems, you can probably locate the solution in this guide.

    Keep the System packing carton. An improperly packaged controller returned to the factory under warranty may be damaged in shipping and possibly invalidate the warranty.

    DO NOT substitute for the pool products recommended in the operation guide.

    QUESTIONS MOST OFTEN ASKED

    WHAT IS WATER BALANCE?
    Balanced water refers to PH, total alkalinity and calcium hardness. This is a must for pool maintenance.

    What is PH?
    PH refers to the acidic or alkaline measure of the water. The scale range is from 1 to 14. Pool water is most effective in a range of 7.4 to 8.0. Muratic acid lowers PH, sodium carbonate raises PH.

    Scale/Cloudy    Ideal    Staining              
    12 - 10 - 9   8.0 - 7.8 - 7.6 - 7.4    7.2 - 7 - 5 - 3 - 1



    WHAT IS TOTAL ALKALINITY?
    Total alkalinity is a measure of the buffering capacity or degree of resistance to Ph change. Bicarbonates, carbonates and hydrates make up most of the total alkalinity. Pool water is most effective in a range of 73ppm to 110 ppm. Muratic acid lowers the alkalinity. Sodium bicarbonate raises the alkalinity.

    Scale/ Cloudy & Staining    Ideal    Ph Bounce Corrosion
    180 - 160 - 140 - 120   110 - 100 - 90 - 80 - 70    60 - 50 - 40



    WHAT IS CALCIUM HARDNESS?
    Calcium hardness is the amount of calcium and magnesium dissolved in the water. Pool water is most effective in the range of 150ppm to 500ppm. Lowering calcium hardness can be accomplished only by diluting with water that is lower in calcium hardness. Adding calcium chloride raises calcium hardness. Ask you local dealer for assistance.

    Scale/Cloudy    Ideal    Etching/Corrosion              
    500 - 400 - 375 - 325   300 - 275 - 250    225 - 200 - 175 - 150



    WHAT IS PROPER ION LEVEL?
    Your ION level should be maintained between .2ppm and .3ppm. To increase ION level increase output. To decrease ION level decrease output.

    Staining    Ideal    Algae Growth
    .7 -.6 - .5 - .4   .30 - .25    .2 - .1



    WHAT IS CYANURIC ACID?
    Cyanuric acid reduces the ability of ultraviolet rays to destroy chlorine. Cyanuric acid is not required for residential pools and its use is banned in New York State.

    WHAT IS TOTAL DISSOLVED SOLIDS?
    T.D.S. is simply a measure of all solids dissolved in your water. (Calcium carbonate, salt and any other products from past chemical use). Exceeding 2000ppm is not recommended.

    FILTERS

    DO I NEED A FILTERING SYSTEM WITH MY SYSTEM UNIT?
    Yes, your filtering system is essential to remove dead bacteria and algae.

    IS THERE MORE THAN ONE TYPE OF FILTER?
    There are three types of filters for pools. There are sand filters, cartridge filters, diatomite (commonly called D.E. filters). Each uses a different filter medium.

    WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THEM?
    The filtering capabilities vary. They are measured in microns. The lower the micron rating the more the filter will remove from the water.

    • Sand filters are rated from 25 to 40 microns.

    • Cartridge filters are rated from 10 to 20 microns.

    • D.E. filters are rated from 1 to 3 microns.


    Maintain your filter as recommended by the manufacturer. A properly maintained and operating filter is essential for your ionization system to function as designed.

    WHAT CAN I DO TO INCREASE THE EFFECTIVENESS OF MY FILTER?
    There are several water polishers and filtration aids available. Ask your local ES System dealer for availability.

    PUMP RUN TIME

    Some people using chlorine or bromine in their pools run the pool pump eight, sixteen and even twenty-four hours a day, especially in the summer. Such long pump run times is unnecessary when using the System. Chlorine and bromine are rapidly dissipated by UV rays from the sun and water circulation in daylight hours is necessary to minimize chemical loss. Ions are not affected by the sun. Thus, shorter pump run times are possible with the System. With this system, you only run your pump to filter your water.

    HOW LONG SHOULD THAT BE?
    The System is designed to help you enjoy your pool and prevent problems. Should something unexpectedly happen, you should be able to solve it by using the following tips:

    TROUBLESHOOTING

    CLOUDY WATER

    • Check filter.

    • Clean if necessary. You may need to add a filter aid.

    • Oxidize if needed (see Oxidization).


    GREEN WATER

    • Check filter, clean if necessary.

    • Check alkalinity, adjust accordingly.

    • Check PH, adjust accordingly.


    Green water may also occur upon a heavy invasion of algae, which may rapidly reduce the proper ion level. If this happens to you, check your copper reading and if below .2pp, move the controller switch to the ON (shock) position and you should add a gallon or two of chlorine. (The amount of chlorine you need depends on the size of your pool.) The green will dramatically disappear. When your copper level returns to .3ppm return the controller switch to the AUTO position.

    Usually, what has happened in the green water problem is that the ION level is sufficient to break down the algae into chlorophyll modules (green in color) but the ion level is insufficient to flock the contaminants into particles heavy enough to be washed into the filtering system.

    ABOUT POOL WATER

    REFRESHED POOL WATER is required periodically for all pools, especially those that have been abused with chlorine and other harsh chemicals in the past. System owners with freshened water enjoy the ultimate in ionization experience.

    EVAPORATION OF POOL WATER allows carbonates, calcium and other minerals to remain behind and compound with time. Problems begin when hardness exceeds 500ppm. Hardness will increase to 4 times fresh water hardness in as little as two and a half to four years and can approach 900 ppm and higher in six years. Algae love high total alkalinity and high hardness.

    CALCIUM AND CARBONATES, when not controlled, can seriously affect operation of any ionization system. If you have difficulty adjusting total alkalinity, it may be because of the interference caused by calcium hardness. Hardness and total alkalinity must BOTH be controlled for optimum success with ionization.

    GENERAL COMMENTS

    ON A REGULAR BASIS check your ES System controller to be sure to be sure that the unit has power. At the time you check, the controller may be at shutdown stage, but as long as the RED power indicator LED is lit, the controller is alive and well.

    WHEN POOL WATER HARDNESS exceeds 500ppm the balance between total alkalinity and hardness becomes much more difficult. In such situations the hardness must be reduced. This is accomplished with a partial or complete change-out of water. The majority of public water supply systems produce water that has a hardness of 300ppm.

    If your change-out water exceeds 300ppm in hardness, contact your ES System dealer for recommendations.

    AT THE END OF EACH SEASON, and at the beginning of each season, examine the electrodes for wear and clean them if necessary. To do so, simply unscrew the electrode housing from the "tree". Then examine them for wear. If the gap between the electrodes exceeds an inch and a quarter, the electrodes should be replaced. If the electrodes do not need to be replaced, take the opportunity to clean them. To do so, fill the housing with white vinegar and let stand for several hours. Then empty and wash with a strong spray of water. If a residue still remains on the electrodes then brush/scrape until reasonably clean.

    IF YOUR POOL IS HEATED, be advised that your ES System will clean your collector or heat exchanger of the contamination caused by the use of chlorine or bromine. This cleansing will exhibit itself as fine gold colored dust. When visible vacuum or push to center drain. This dust will appear until all the contamination has been removed. Usually this cleansing will take place over a period of a week to 10 days depending upon the degree of contamination and the size of the heating system.

    IF YOU HAVE BAQUACIL in your pool, DO NOT turn the ES System controller on until there is no trace of BAQUACIL in the water. If there is a question call your ES System dealer.

    NEVER USE A COPPER BASE algaecide with any ionization system.

    USE YOUR TEST KIT properly. Read the instructions carefully and be sure to read the results of your test by looking DOWN the test vial from top to bottom.

    The ES System controller has a three position switch, "ON", "OFF" and "AUTO". You will normally operate your unit in the "AUTO" position. The "ON" position is used for ion shock should you find there has been a depletion of the ion level and there is a need to restore the level in a hurry (see warning).

    If you have any questions, or problems, your answers and solutions can probably be found with a phone call to your ES System dealer.

    IN SUMMARY

    To enjoy your pool with a minimum of attention is as simple as ONE... TWO... THREE...

    ONE - Keep your water balanced.

    TWO - Establish and maintain a proper ION level.

    THREE - Oxidize as necessary (non-chlorine oxidizer).



    *** It goes without saying that your pool must be properly vacuumed and brushed. An automatic pool sweep is highly recommended.